The 30-Second Test to Spot a Real Jaipuri Bandhani Saree (Most Buyers Get This Wrong)

Summary

So imagine that you see a Bandhani saree online which costs ₹1,500. It looks colourful, it has nicely done dots, and in its description there's a word "Jaipuri".

You order it, and when it comes, the dots are flat and all the same size. Nothing on the cloth is tied, because the pattern is printed.

This happens quite often with Bandhani. Buy Bandhani sarees online for women in India only after a quick check, and you can avoid most of these printed ones. The check takes about 30 seconds. Most people don't do it because they look at how neat the dots are. Neat dots are actually a reason to look closer, since a machine can make them neat and even much more easily than a person can.

What real Bandhani actually is?

Bandhani is also called Bandhej. It is a tie-dye craft. A person pinches small points of the cloth and ties each one tightly with thread, and then the whole cloth goes into the dye. The tied spots don't take the colour, so when the threads are removed, you see dots. And all this is because one saree can be tied with hundreds, sometimes even thousands, of such points, which makes making them so time-consuming.

It is traditionally made in Gujarat and Rajasthan. If we talk about Gujarat, then we need to mention such places as Kutch, Bhuj, Mandvi and Jamnagar. And if it comes to Rajasthan, then Jaipur, Sikar, Bikaner and Jodhpur. Usually, Rajasthani Bandhani is very colourful, using bright shades like red, yellow, and saffron. Gujarati Bandhani usually has smaller dots.

About the word Jaipuri. As far as we understand, the only Bandhani GI in the list of Indian GIs is Jamnagari Bandhani, which is made in Gujarat. Which means that the term "Jaipuri" mostly indicates a place of origin, as declared by the seller.

It doesn't tell you that anyone tied the dots by hand. That is why we would trust the test more than the label. 

The 30-second test!

Hold the saree in your hand, or zoom into the photo if you are shopping online. Do these three things in this order.

First 10 seconds: look at the dots.

Hand-tied dots are not the same. Some are a little bigger, some are closer together, and a few may be tied twice. Most dots also have a small ring around them where the thread held back the dye. Printed dots are the same size and the same distance apart all over the saree. If every dot looks like it came from a stamp, it was probably printed. 

Next 10 seconds: touch the dots.

Real Bandhani has small raised bumps where the cloth was tied, and you can feel them easily with your fingers. Printed cloth feels flat and smooth, since nothing was tied. 

Last 10 seconds: turn the saree over.

In real tie-dye, the pattern shows on the back almost as clearly as on the front. A print often looks weaker on the back. Also look at the colour near the dots. Hand-tied silks usually have soft, uneven colour changes, while printed ones look flat and even.

Where most people go wrong?

• They think neat dots mean good quality. Perfect spacing looks nice, but screen prints repeat the same motif without any mistakes, and that is what makes them look neat. 
• They trust the title. Words like "pure", "handmade" and "Jaipuri" can be typed by anyone.
• They only look at the front photo. The back side and a close-up show a lot more.
• They don't think about the price. I talk about this in the next section.

Buy Bandhani sarees online for women in India without getting fooled.

You can't touch the fabric on a phone screen, so this is how we would do the same test online.

• Take a good look at the photos and find some uneven dots and rings.
• Ask the seller for a photo of the reverse side taken in daylight.
• Read the fabric name properly. Pure silk, gaji silk and blended fabrics are not the same, and some sellers sell machine-printed patterns as Bandhani. 
• Compare the price with the work. There is no fixed rate. A guide from one seller claims that a simple hand-tied cotton saree costs approximately ₹6,000, while most "Bandhani" sarees online costing under ₹2,500 are probably printed. It is merely the point of view of one seller, but if a saree is described as "pure hand-tied silk" and costs almost nothing, you should think twice.

Read reviews that have real photos from customers.

A short message you can send the seller:

There is no need to write a long message. You can say something like this: "Hi, is the work of Bandhani hand-tied or printed? Could you show me a close-up of the dots and the reverse side? 

And what is the fabric exactly? A seller who knows the product can answer this in a minute. If the reply is vague or you don't get one, that tells you something too.

Fabric and tying are two different things.

A lot of people mix these up. One question is how the pattern was made: tied or printed. The other question is what the fabric is, like pure silk, georgette, cotton or art silk. The saree can be hand-tied on pure silk, hand-tied on light fabric, and printed both on silk and on light fabric. Fabric will give information about drape and price, while tying will show the quality of the craft. 

It is better to ask about both.

We also want to be clear about our own sarees. At Sathiraa, our Bandhani Art Silk collection is art silk, and the collection name says that. Nowadays, the price of these sarees is listed as ₹2,769. We prefer that you know what you are buying before ordering rather than getting a surprise when opening a parcel. The sarees in this collection are meant for those customers who appreciate the Bandhani look and want to buy something cheaper for some occasion.

If you want a hand-tied saree for a wedding, do the 30-second test on any seller, and that includes us.

Is a printed or art silk Bandhani always a bad buy?

Not really. If you want to buy traditional sarees online in India on a smaller budget, I don't think there is anything wrong with a printed or art silk Bandhani saree, as long as the seller says clearly what it is and the price is fair. The problem starts when a printed saree is sold as hand-tied and priced like one. Those requiring a saree to wear for two or three occasions and not desirous of spending too much, they may find satisfaction in an art silk saree. For someone looking for longevity and heritage value, there could be a higher preference for a hand-tied saree.

What to ask before you pay?

When you buy traditional sarees online in India, some small things matter more than the sale banner. Can you pay when it is delivered? Is shipping free? Is there a phone number you can call if you have a doubt?

On the Sathiraa website, we have cash on delivery and free shipping, and the estimated delivery time is 5 to 7 days. If you want to ask something about a saree before ordering, you can call us on +91 95097 73587 or email threadsofindia.jaipur@gmail.com. We are fine with answering a few questions before you place the order. (Please check the correct contact details before uploading the content.) 

Final thoughts

In summary of the test: Check for small errors among dots, feel for bumps and see the backside of the cloth. You can shop for Bandhani sarees online for women in India if the name of the fabric is clear, images of the backside are available, and pricing is right.

If you like tie-dye from Rajasthan but not dots, you can try leheriya. This is another type of tie-resist, but the cloth is rolled and tied diagonally to give wave lines rather than dots. 

We have a Leheriya collection at Sathiraa for this. If you wish to purchase sarees online in India with a reduced chance of disappointment, you can use the same test regardless of the product description by the seller.

FAQs

Q1. How can I know whether a Bandhani saree is hand-tied or printed?

Check for the dots, raised bumps and the back side of the cloth.

Hand-tied dots are a bit uneven, feel raised, and show on both sides. Printed dots are flat, all the same, and weaker on the back.

Q2. Is Bandhani the same as Bandhej?

Yes, mostly. Both names are used for the same tie-dye technique in Gujarat and Rajasthan.

A few sellers say Bandhej dots are bigger, but in most listings the two words are used in the same way. 

Q3. Does "Jaipuri Bandhani" mean it is handmade?

It just gives the region of origin according to the claims of the seller. So, the GI for Bandhani that we could find is that of Jamnagari Bandhani from Gujarat. Hence, it is better to depend on the test rather than the label.

Q4. Buy Bandhani sarees online for women in India: how do I stay safe?

Zoom in on the photos, request a photo of the back of the saree, know the name of the fabric and match the price with the amount of work done. Cash on delivery and a contact number are added advantages.

Q5. Why is hand-tied Bandhani expensive?

Each dot is individually knotted by hand, and one saree can consist of thousands of such dots. It takes a lot more time than printing; hence, the price is high.

Q6. Is art silk Bandhani worth buying?

It can be, if the listing clearly says it is art silk and the price is fair. We would not pay a hand-tied price for it.

Q7.  Are natural dyes used in Bandhani sarees?

In many traditional pieces, yes. Indigo, madder, and turmeric are among the most common dyes used; however, not all sellers disclose the dye used in the saree; hence, it would be wise to ask. Sarees made of pieces with natural dyes need special care; hence, it needs to be washed by hand with cold water or dry cleaned in the shade. 

Q8. What should I check before buying traditional sarees online in India?

The name of the cloth, photos showing both sides of the cloth, a reasonable price, and a method of contacting the seller prior to payment.